From lagging behind in the global textile industry to today being its undisputed leader, China has reached the pinnacle after going through many trials and tribulations. At this historical moment, how do we evaluate the national textile industry's past, present, and future, and the individuals who lead it? We turn to Du Yuzhou, president of China National Textile and Apparel Council, with our questions.

Laying the Foundation

China Textile: As the People's Republic of China celebrates its 60th anniversary, we look back at the coinciding founding of the Chinese textile industry. What are your thoughts?

Du Yuzhou: In the past 60 years, we have not only established an integrated textile industry but also founded a major power in the world textile business. This is a basic view of the whole industry's development in the 60 years of New China's founding.

China Textile: These 60 years can be separated into the 30 years before Deng Xiaoping's economic reforms of 1978 and the 30 years after. What did the Chinese textile industry experience in the first half?

Du Yuzhou: In 1949, the Chinese people only had, on average, 2.31 meters of fabric a year. It wasn't enough to make a suit for adults or even a piece of bedding. The national economy was going through a difficult time. But since the foundation of New China, the Chinese people have stood up and so has the textile industry. Towards the end of the 1970's, an integrated textile industrial system was established. Clothing tickets were supplied. A series of textile basements were set up to satisfy people's needs in Zhengzhou, Xian, Xianyang, as well as three traditional ones in Shanghai, Qingdao, and Tianjin. Textile machine shops and chemical fiber plants were also built. In fact, we provided the diverse group of textile sectors, that had been established as the basis for a well-intergrated industrial line up in China¡¯s textile industry.

The Beginning of a Great Undertaking

China Textile: During the first 30 years, we established the integrated textile industrial system. How do we view the past 30 years after the reform?

Du Yuzhou: After the reform, China's textile industry developed quickly. We are well-established as a big player in the world textile industry. At the beginning of the 21st century, we officially announced our intentions to transform China from a big player to a strong player.

China Textile: Enormous changes have taken place in the textile industry in the past 30 years. What events are most significant as mile stones?

Du Yuzhou: Yes, during these 30 years we have seen several indicators of the industry's evolvement. The first indicator is that clothing tickets were eliminated in 1983, an end to a 30-year-old system. It was an exciting and uplifting change, seeing people go from having barely enough cloth and fabric, to having only their basic demands met, to finally having unlimited access. The few years between 1979 and 1983 was an indicator of the rapid development of the textile industry¡ªand the whole economy itself. Consumers' buying behavior has changed; with demands for quantity of fabric and clothing, to switch over to quality and variety, and even to an elevated taste for aesthetic value and style in the1990's.

The beginning of the new century is not only the year-mark, but also a turning point for our industry, as the official announced that, we planed to build China from being merely a large textile industry to being a strong textile industry. Since the end of the last century, China has become the largest country in the world in textile production, export, and consumption. In 2001, China successfully joined the World Trade Organization, an act that brought us an unprecedented opportunities for developing our textile industry further.

Coping with the Times

China Textile: Nowadays, what challenges and opportunities are we facing as we transform from a large textile country to a strong textile country?

Du Yuzhou: There are three main concerns. First, with the global economic development, the internationalization of China¡¯s textile industry will be expedited. Second, new innovations in technology have improved the industry, which is now known as being high-tech. Third, our economy and society have developed quickly and steadily. Domestic demand is an impetus for growth in the textile industry.

China Textile: So we have unique opportunities for a transformation. What's the significance for the textile industry? 

Du Yuzhou: In 1978, China's textile and apparel exports accounted for 3.5% in the world and totaled US$24.31 billion. In 2007, it accounted for 30% in the world and reached US$175.6 billion. Morever, our exports proportion of common trade reached 72%, headed 28% in the nation, indicating our industrial chain's capability, that is intergratred now, but not only processing for foreign countries. In addition, with the global economic development, the internal and external markets have been tapped into. The internal market accounted for 80% of the whole textile industry, and the external market accounted for 20%. Some Chinese brands even invested in Japan, America, and Europe.

Innovations in technology have brought us advanced techniques and productivity. This in turn has accelerated changes in multinational production processes, exchange, and circulation mode. Our position in the industry internationally has been climbing.

Domestic demand is also a factor in the development of the Chinese textile industry. Right now, consumption is first on people's minds, then investment. In 2001, China's GDP Per Capita exceeded US$1000. Our target for 2008 was US$3000. From experience, whenever GDP Per Capita is over US$1000, apparel consumption will be boosted. Whenever GDP Per Capita is over US$3000, the desire for fashion is high. Obviously, we have gone forward to this phase.

The other effect of domestic demand is the consumption of industrial textiles, which is a superior condition for China's development. Due to the Chinese economy's rapid development, consumption of textiles in every industry¡ªapparel, home, technical¡ªhas increased.

The establishment of a country with a strong textile industry is also beneficial to the environment. Resources will be better conserved, companies will be more eco-friendly, and concepts like recycle economy, carbon economy, clean production processes, and ''green'' textiles will be promoted. These are all signs of an improved industry.

Road to Revival

China Textile: What impact will the financial crisis have on the current and future development of China's textile industry?

Du Yuzhou: The worldwide economic crisis only offered an incentive to the adjustment and revival of the textile industry. Generally speaking, there are five main transformations that helped realize the industry's rebound. First, we should not rely on the low cost of labor any more, but focus on creativity and technology. We aim to promote self research and development technology, eliminate old machines, enhance labors' quality, facilitate industrail upgrading. Second, From production modes relying on resources to production modes independent of resources transfer, such as creating a recycle and carbon economy and saving fiber resources, energy, and water. Third, going from environmentally harmful to environmentally friendly methods; for instance, developing cleaner production processes and caring about the environment. Fourth, going from the traditional industrial structure to a more modern, intensive one¡ªbetter communication channels internally, strengthening international cooperation. Finally, a more consummate marketing strategy that betters marketing and reinforces industrial self-discipline, including more awareness for social responsibility, intellectual property rights, and marketing order.

China Textile: How are the five transformations going? What prospects lie in store for the industry?

Du Yuzhou: Since March, China's textile industry has been steadily climbing. Market share leveled off, mainly because it manifested itself within the US market share. From January to June, export share of textile industry to the US increased three points. Furthermore, the pace of technology's advancement has increased. Based on the current situation, we can see that as the orders of eastern coastal enterprises go up, market activity resumes. 

In global terms, the industry should be even more active, not only to continue playing such a pivotal role in the national economy but to strengthen its position internationally as well. 

Source form China Textile Magazine

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The Musings of a Free Spirit

By Ran Sun

Dominic Johnson-Hill has never been one to follow rules. At an age most teenagers enter college and start on the path to adulthood, Johnson-Hill left his native Britain to travel the world. For three years he moved from place to place until a trip to Qingdao led him to Beijing. Since then, he has settled down in a traditional Beijing courtyard home, called a siheyuan, with his wife and three daughters. In 2006, he opened Plastered 8¡ªChuangketie¡ªin Nanluoguxiang. Specializing in t-shirts emblazoned with images representative of Beijing, Plastered 8 is poised to become an international brand capable of giving the world a glimpse into the heart of Chinese culture.

Q: You¡¯ve been to so many places in the world. Why did you choose to settle in China?

A: I left England when I was around 17, 18. I didn¡¯t finish school and I didn¡¯t want to so I moved to Africa first, then went to South America and India. When I was 20, I went to Qingdao to visit my brother. From there, I moved up to Beijing.

       At first I didn¡¯t even like Beijing. It was a very controlled environment; foreigners had to live in specified areas, had to use a specific type of money to buy things priced specifically for them, and so on. I hated the unfairness of it all! I moved in with a Chinese family in Dazhongsi. I didn¡¯t expect to stay at first but it just happened. Living with them, I learned a lot about the language and the culture. I met artists in Yuanmingyuan, hung out with musicians, and slowly I started to like Beijing. In 1995, I started my first business. It was a market research company and I worked at it for five years. It was pretty successful so I stayed. 

Q: How did you go from running a market research company to starting a t-shirt shop?

A: I don¡¯t have much schooling but I do have the belief that I can do anything if I put my mind to it. While I didn¡¯t like Beijing at first, I eventually came to appreciate it. Because I enjoy design, it was a natural process for me then to take images of the city that I love¡ªobjects, stickers, tickets¡ªplay with them and then put them on t-shirts. I wanted to create a brand unique to Beijing that represents how I see the city. Plastered 8 is the result.

Q: How was it at first?

A: It was very difficult. I wanted to build a brand for young Chinese people, not foreigners. But in the beginning I had few customers and 90% of them were foreigners. The Chinese didn¡¯t like the cloth I was using and they didn¡¯t understand why I was putting thermoses and old things like that on t-shirts.

       The media caught on though after a lot of marketing and events. From there, my brand started to take off. In China, it¡¯s important to ¡°have face.¡± You have to have a recognizable brand. I have that power now so it¡¯s easier to sell stuff.

Q: What was the inspiration behind the name ¡°Plastered 8¡±?

A: Well it was just ¡°Plastered,¡± originally. The ¡°8¡± came because I chose to use a traditional Beijing building plate as my shop¡¯s sign and I needed a number in the white space. I chose the number eight because it¡¯s lucky in Chinese culture. But in English, the world ¡°plastered¡± has multiple meanings: to ¡°plaster¡± something on a t-shirt or on a wall, to be drunk. It¡¯s playful and it suits a street brand because it¡¯s risky and fun. It makes people think.

       The Chinese meaning is interesting too. When people first see it, they think, ¡°Why?¡± And then they smile. So many people ask me why I named my brand Chuangketie. The fact that they do means the name is memorable and that is an incredibly powerful branding tool.

Q: Do you study other designers, read fashion magazines, and look at Beijing street fashion? Or do you isolate yourself from external influences when it comes to designing your shirts?

A: The people here in Nanluoguxiang are definitely fashionable. And when it comes to cloth or t-shirt styles and cuts I take note of others. But I don¡¯t follow others in my choice of graphics. The reason we got so much attention in the first place was because we were different. If I copy others or design for my customers, the brand will become commercial and lose its way.

       Graphic shirts are common. But I follow my heart when it comes to designing my products and that¡¯s how we distinguish ourselves from our competitors. For example, one of my greatest passions is exploring secondhand markets. Every Thursday, I spend about three hours at Panjiayuan. Everyone knows me there. What¡¯s junk to some people is treasure to me and I get a lot of inspiration from the stuff I see there.  

Q: Have you had previous experience in fashion design or the arts?

A: No. I love art, especially contemporary art, but I¡¯m terrible at it. Plastered has been a platform for me to pursue art on my own.

Q: You were on a CCTV forum advocating for the importance of instilling creativity in kids. How do you propose doing this?

A: There¡¯s an English saying: ¡°an idle mind is a devil¡¯s playground.¡± I have an idle mind and the devil¡¯s playground is a very creative place for me. For Chinese kids however, there is no such thing as an idle mind. The education system here is very competitive. It¡¯s a lot of learning and a lot of memorizing. You have to give 100% in everything. It would take a revolution to change it but that¡¯s how I think creativity can be inspired in kids. Just hang out! Take a bit of love. I took my eldest daughter out of school because there¡¯s just too much work. Six year olds shouldn¡¯t be doing three hours of homework every night! They should be having fun, drawing, painting, doing creative stuff.

       I work with a lot of Chinese graphic artists. Many of them have just graduated from college and the ideas they bring to the table are amazing. I think it¡¯s a result of leaving home, losing pressure, and finding their own way in life. Chinese kids have so much potential¡ªcreative and otherwise¡ªthat I think can be realized in ways besides the current schooling system.

Q: Creativity is obviously the guiding principle behind Plastered 8. What about the technical aspects of the business?

A: Production¡¯s a real headache. We buy our cloth from Guangzhou and we outsource to three manufacturing factories. The main manufacturer is in Beijing¡¯s Tongzhou district. They have thousands of workers producing for the big brands like Kappa and Anta. We use them for large orders and things like hoodies and zip-ups between the months of May and November, when they¡¯re not flooded with orders from the bigger brands. The quality¡¯s exceptional and the inspection time isn¡¯t as lengthy. The other two manufacturers are in Shunyi district and in Tianjin. 

       We also have three screen-printing factories. We use whichever one depending on the time of the year and how complicated the print is. If it¡¯s simple, any factory is acceptable. If it¡¯s a little more elaborate, we like to go with the factory specializing in screen-printing.

       The designs are created by five artists and five graphic artists. They¡¯re local, hired on a freelance basis to create a brand for whatever city we¡¯re selling in. Even though our designs are Beijing-influenced, they work for any city. But we¡¯re working towards opening a flagship store the first quarter of next year in Shanghai that¡¯ll have Shanghai-specific designs.

       When I first started, I usually placed my orders around 1000 t-shirts. No one wanted to deal with me. But ever since the economic downturn, the export market has slowed down and people want smaller orders because the risk of not selling isn¡¯t as high.

Q: The economic situation is unique. Outside of China, it¡¯s collapsing and on its way to recovery while in China, it¡¯s booming. How has this affected your business?

A: Our business has always been going up and up. Our store in Nanluoguxiang has pattered off a bit because you can only sell so much from one store and our market share has been eaten up by copiers but in general, Plastered is still on the up. I¡¯m not a luxury brand; the retail sector I¡¯m in hasn¡¯t had a slump at all. People I deal with in the United States have been hit and they don¡¯t quite understand or believe me when I say things are great.

       It¡¯s crazy to see how China has held on. It¡¯s very impressive and I have a lot of respect for the Chinese. 15 years ago I would¡¯ve never believed it possible to see China pay for the operations of the American government. But change is very much a part of Chinese culture now.

Q: What kinds of changes will your company be going through in the future?

A: Right now, we¡¯re selling our products through Taobao. But we¡¯ve spent a lot of time and money on a new website from which we can operate. We¡¯re placing a lot of hope on the Internet and overseas market¡ªthat¡¯s our concentration for the rest of this year. By March or April of next year we¡¯re looking to open in Shanghai. It¡¯s a big step because if the plan works out, we can scale and replicate it in any city around China.

Q: Do you plan on turning your company into a major international brand or do you want to remain an independent, specialty chain?

A: I don¡¯t really have a strategy for global expansion. I can see 10, 15 stores maybe but 1000? No, I¡¯m not that kind of guy. I¡¯ve overseen the opening of stores in Guangzhou, Chengdu, Singapore, Seattle, and Paris and that¡¯s enough for me. My talents are purely creative. But I¡¯ve taken on a new CEO for our business and given him a stake in the company. He¡¯s coming in with a lot of branding experience and strategy. He has the lust, passion, and vision that¡¯ll move us on.

Source form China Textile Magazine

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